THE old men in skullcaps hiked up the cobblestone steps in the last bruised light of dusk. They passed Gypsy merchants draped in rugs that were for sale, engineering students on post-cafe strolls and children chattering in an acrobatic blend of Greek, Turkish and the Slavic language of the Pomaks. They didn’t notice I was [...]
THE NEW YORK TIMES July 27, 2008 Journeys | Crete Days of Wild Oregano and Goatherds A SPIRALING, slightly treacherous dirt road leads to Aspros Potamos, an enclave of 300-year-old cottages in eastern Crete once used by olive farmers and goatherds. Peaceful and primitive, with stone floors, oil lamps for light and a starry night [...]
The New York Times May 18, 2008 Journeys | Nicosia, Cyprus LIKE most of Nicosia, the Atolye Cadi Kazani Cafe feels nostalgic. It is awash in jazzy piano music, the scent of cardamom-spiced coffee and an Ottoman ambience that reminds the owner, Nilgun Guney, of her grandmother’s house. “This is the magic zone,” said Ms. [...]
The New York Times May 4, 2008 FOR years, Athens was little more than a one-night stand on the way to the Greek isles. Concretized and crowded, it lived off its archaeological sites and dirty-dancing-on-tables night life. But now a visit has become more than just a quickie for the sake of the Parthenon. Athens [...]
The New York Times April 20, 2008 Greek myth has it that an enraged Athena created Lycabettus Hill after she dropped an uprooted mountain she intended to use for construction of the Acropolis. This “other hill” turned out to be the tallest in Athens, at about 900 feet above sea level. Named after the wolves [...]
