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Ottoman Whispers in a Secret Corner of Greece

THE old men in skullcaps hiked up the cobblestone steps in the last bruised light of dusk. They passed Gypsy merchants draped in rugs that were for sale, engineering students on post-cafe strolls and children chattering in an acrobatic blend of Greek, Turkish and the Slavic language of the Pomaks. They didn’t notice I was [...]

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