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Tag Archives: Greece

New Story: Meze Nights on NPR.org’s Kitchen Window

I finally made it into one of my all-time favorite food columns with an essay (with recipes) on one of my all-time favorite food rituals, the summer meze.

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Ottoman Whispers in a Secret Corner of Greece

THE old men in skullcaps hiked up the cobblestone steps in the last bruised light of dusk. They passed Gypsy merchants draped in rugs that were for sale, engineering students on post-cafe strolls and children chattering in an acrobatic blend of Greek, Turkish and the Slavic language of the Pomaks. They didn’t notice I was [...]

Days of Wild Oregano and Goatherds

THE NEW YORK TIMES
July 27, 2008
Journeys | Crete
Days of Wild Oregano and Goatherds
A SPIRALING, slightly treacherous dirt road leads to Aspros Potamos, an enclave of 300-year-old cottages in eastern Crete once used by olive farmers and goatherds. Peaceful and primitive, with stone floors, oil lamps for light and a starry night sky, the cottages, [...]

Edging Closer in a Divided Capital

The New York Times
May 18, 2008

Journeys | Nicosia, Cyprus
LIKE most of Nicosia, the Atolye Cadi Kazani Cafe feels nostalgic. It is awash in jazzy piano music, the scent of cardamom-spiced coffee and an Ottoman ambience that reminds the owner, Nilgun Guney, of her grandmother’s house.
“This is the magic zone,” said Ms. Guney, a Turkish Cypriot [...]

High on a Hill, With an Acropolis View

The New York Times
April 20, 2008

Greek myth has it that an enraged Athena created Lycabettus Hill after she dropped an uprooted mountain she intended to use for construction of the Acropolis. This “other hill” turned out to be the tallest in Athens, at about 900 feet above sea level. Named after the [...]

Crete, With Strings Attached

Crete, With Strings Attached
Sunday, December 9, 2007
The rugged Greek island of Crete may be the last place on Earth where kids love their grandparents’ music so much that they play it every weekend.
In Rethymnon, a pretty seaside town of about 40,000 people, the wail of the ancestral lyra always trumps the boom-thud of European [...]

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