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Ottoman Whispers in a Secret Corner of Greece

THE old men in skullcaps hiked up the cobblestone steps in the last bruised light of dusk. They passed Gypsy merchants draped in rugs that were for sale, engineering students on post-cafe strolls and children chattering in an acrobatic blend of Greek, Turkish and the Slavic language of the Pomaks. They didn’t notice I was following them until they sat outside the mosque to wash their feet.
Read on for the rest of my latest story for The New York Times and Yannis Kolesidis’s incredible photographs.

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